Apparently you can add captions to your videos using CamStudio. I've got a copy that I downloaded, and the option is there, although I am not sure how to use that option yet. I have to make some screencasts for work, and I want to add captions to them. I've written the scripts, so all I have to do is copy and paste them into the video captioning tool.
Allegedly you can use SMIL with AVI files as well as with RAM. I've used SMIL before, it's great, but I don't know if it works with WMV or SWF.
Wednesday, June 20, 2007
Friday, June 15, 2007
braille campaign
The campaign aims for children to have the right to learn braille. Many children with significant sight loss are losing out because teachers think they do not need to learn braille. We want our children to become fully literate and employable and believe braille is the only way for a child with very limited vision. There is even talk of not teaching braille to children who are totally blind and just relying on speech operated technology. Please sign this petition: http://petitions.pm.gov.uk/SaveBraille/ or for more information go to: http://braillecampaign.blogspot.com
Thursday, June 14, 2007
the last human?
After I finished the wonderful The Stolen Child, I started reading I am Legend (1954) by Richard Matheson. Funnily enough, both books are about what it means to be human, but in radically different ways.
The protagonist of I am Legend is the only human being not to have been infected by a plague of vampirism that has swept over the whole earth. As a consequence, he decides that he must kill as many vampires as possible, and hopes eventually to find some other uninfected people. Gradually, however, he works out the infection vector and lifecycle of the vampiris bacteria, and how it accounts for the symptoms of vampirism. It gradually dawns on the reader that if this is an illness, it is not supernatural, so there is no "moral obligation" to kill the vampires. Eventually you get to find out how the vampires feel about it. It's a study in how someone can turn into a complete psychopath, but feel entirely justified in his compulsion to kill. Although it's about vampires, it can actually be classified as "hard SF", since there is a well-worked out scientific explanation of vampirism, and it's about the sociological and psychological developments that might occur if there was a plague of vampirism. But it is also a story of loss and grief and fear, and the possibility of forgiveness. The character of Ruth is particularly interesting, though not that well-fleshed-out, and I'm not sure I believed in her forgiveness. But still, it was a very interesting read. There was also the idea of what it is that makes us human - is it that we are not vampires or whatever, or is it that we are capable of relating to others, of empathy, and trust and acceptance? This aspect of the book sort of reminded me of Cassandra in Doctor Who, who is also "the last human" but in her solitude and pride, has lost her humanity. This loss of empathy is applicable to many other bigots who demonise other people.
The protagonist of I am Legend is the only human being not to have been infected by a plague of vampirism that has swept over the whole earth. As a consequence, he decides that he must kill as many vampires as possible, and hopes eventually to find some other uninfected people. Gradually, however, he works out the infection vector and lifecycle of the vampiris bacteria, and how it accounts for the symptoms of vampirism. It gradually dawns on the reader that if this is an illness, it is not supernatural, so there is no "moral obligation" to kill the vampires. Eventually you get to find out how the vampires feel about it. It's a study in how someone can turn into a complete psychopath, but feel entirely justified in his compulsion to kill. Although it's about vampires, it can actually be classified as "hard SF", since there is a well-worked out scientific explanation of vampirism, and it's about the sociological and psychological developments that might occur if there was a plague of vampirism. But it is also a story of loss and grief and fear, and the possibility of forgiveness. The character of Ruth is particularly interesting, though not that well-fleshed-out, and I'm not sure I believed in her forgiveness. But still, it was a very interesting read. There was also the idea of what it is that makes us human - is it that we are not vampires or whatever, or is it that we are capable of relating to others, of empathy, and trust and acceptance? This aspect of the book sort of reminded me of Cassandra in Doctor Who, who is also "the last human" but in her solitude and pride, has lost her humanity. This loss of empathy is applicable to many other bigots who demonise other people.
Wednesday, June 13, 2007
creationism research
Recent research on creationism in the USA shows that almost half of Americans do not believe in evolution.
It seems, though, that the question was not framed in such a way as to allow for people who
believe that one of the seven "days" of creation was millions of years, and that evolution and the big bang are true, but God, a god, or the gods started the whole process - where do these people fit in the scheme of things?
It seems, though, that the question was not framed in such a way as to allow for people who
believe that one of the seven "days" of creation was millions of years, and that evolution and the big bang are true, but God, a god, or the gods started the whole process - where do these people fit in the scheme of things?
Personally I believe in a multiverse in which universes appear and disappear due to the effects of black and white holes (many physicists have adopted this view), and where the processes of evolution, emergence and collapse are the physical correlates of the thought processes of the mind of the Universe.Without further research, it's not possible to determine the exact thinking process of those who agreed that both the theory of evolution and creationism are true. It may be, however, that some respondents were seeking a way to express their views that evolution may have been initiated by or guided by God, and told the interviewer that they agreed with both evolution and creationism in an effort to express this more complex attitude.
- 24% of Americans believe that both the theory of evolution and the theory of creationism are probably or definitely true
- 41% believe that creationism is true, and that evolution is false
- 28% believe that evolution is true, but that creationism is false
- 3% either believe that both are false or have no opinion about at least one of the theories
taking liberties
The shocking truth about the erosion of our fundamental civil liberties by Tony Blair’s government will be exposed this summer in TAKING LIBERTIES, released in UK cinemas by Revolver Entertainment June 8th 2007.This film sounds well worth seeing. The erosion of civil liberties over the last decade has been frighteningly silent and swift, with little protest about it, possibly because few people understand the issues. Hopefully this film will rectify the lack of awareness.
Right to Protest, Right to Freedom of Speech. Right to Privacy. Right not to be detained without charge, Innocent Until Proven Guilty. Prohibition from Torture. TAKING LIBERTIES will reveal how these six central pillars of liberty have been systematically destroyed by New Labour, and the freedoms of the British people stolen from under their noses amidst a climate of fear created by the media and government itself.
TAKING LIBERTIES uncovers the stories the government don’t want you to hear – so ridiculous you will laugh, so ultimately terrifying you will want to take action. Teenage sisters detained for 36 hours for a peaceful protest; an RAF war veteran arrested for wearing an anti-Bush and Blair T-shirt; an innocent man shot in a police raid; and a man held under house arrest for two years, after being found innocent in court. Ordinary law-abiding citizens being punished for exercising their ‘rights’ – rights that have been fought for over centuries, and which seem to have been extinguished in a decade.
Irreverent but revelatory, outrageous but true, TAKING LIBERTIES combines these real stories of liberty loss with never-seen-before footage, cheeky stunts and comment from Mark Thomas, leading politicians, celebrities, human rights organisations, academics and lawyers. Narration from Ashley Jensen (EXTRAS, UGLY BETTY); a pumping soundtrack with tracks by Oasis, Radiohead, Stranglers and Franz Ferdinand; and the presence of Kurt Engfehr, producer of FAHRENHEIT 9/11 and BOWLING FOR COLUMBINE add up to make TAKING LIBERTIES the most explosive and controversial film to hit screens this summer.
Thursday, June 07, 2007
equal access
Communications access now!
Why should Deaf people be forced to undergo surgery, excluded from most videos on the web, and generally regarded as disabled?
Accessibility of communications (such as video captioning) benefits everyone (e.g. I can't get sound on YouTube for some reason) including people with dyslexia and Deaf people.
It's not that hard to add captioning to your videos, and there's a service called Project ReadOn where you can get captioning done for free.
If you want to take part in this campaign, take a photo or video of yourself with either a sign saying "I am deaf and I deserve equal communication access" or "I'm hearing but I support equal communication access for the deaf" and send it to equalcommaccess@yahoo.com
Tuesday, June 05, 2007
stop climate chaos
Sign the petition to the G8+5 summit - apparently when Avaaz.org put a big box of more than quarter of a million signatures on the table, world leaders started to take notice that people want them to do something about climate change. So please sign the petition and add your voice to those who have already signed.
Thursday, May 31, 2007
community?
I have become increasingly suspicious of the word "community" - as in LGBT community, Muslim community, Pagan community, being used to describe a group of people with a shared characteristic. It includes the assumption that the community does or even must speak with one voice, and that there are leaders of the community who will be the transmitters of that voice. It includes the assumption that identity is discrete - you are either Pagan or Christian but can't be both, for example. It is also divisive, setting one community against another. Similar ideas were expressed on Radio 4's Thought for the Day [Listen] [Read] this morning, which I found interesting, and thought "I'm glad it's not just me that's noticed this". Surely we are all part of the community of sentient beings, ultimately?
Tuesday, May 29, 2007
shit happens
Just got this via email - I've seen it before (about 20 years ago when these things were shared via photocopiers rather than email) but this is the updated version, including Wicca and Discordianism. The weird thing is, we were talking about this on Friday, and it arrived in email today from a different friend. Synchronicity.... or just weird shit.
shit happens
according to various religions and spiritual philosophies:
shit happens
according to various religions and spiritual philosophies:
- TAOISM: Shit happens.
- CONFUCIANISM: Confucius say, "Shit happens".
- ZEN: (What is the sound of shit happening?)
- JESUITISM: If shit happens when nobody is watching, is it really shit?
- ISLAM: Shit happens if it is the will of Allah.
- COMMUNISM. Equal shit happens to all people.
- CATHOLICISM: Shit happens because you are bad.
- PSYCHOANALYSIS: Shit happens because of your toilet training.
- SCIENTOLOGY: Shit happens if you're on our shit list.
- ZOROASTRIANISM: Bad shit happens, and good shit happens.
- UNITARIANISM: Maybe shit happens. Let's have coffee and donuts.
- RIGHT-WING PROTESTANTISM: Let this shit happen to someone else.
- JUDAISM: Why does shit always happen to US?
- REFORM JUDAISM: Got any Kaopectate?
- MYSTICISM: What weird shit!
- AGNOSTICISM: What is this shit?
- ATHEISM: I don't believe this shit!
- NIHILISM: Who needs this shit?
- AZTEC: Cut out this shit!
- QUAKER: Let's not fight over this shit.
- FORTEANISM: No shit??
- 12-STEP: I am powerless to cut the shit.
- VOODOO: Hey, that shit looks just like you!
- NEWAGE: Visualize shit not happening.
- DEISM: Shit just happens.
- EXISTENTIALISM: Shit doesn't happen; shit is.
- SECULAR HUMANISM: Shit evolves.
- CHRISTIAN SCIENCE: Shit is in your mind.
- BUDDHISM: Shit happens, but pay no mind.
- SHINTOISM: Shit is everywhere.
- HINDUISM: This shit has happened before.
- WICCA: Mix this shit together and make it happen!
- HASIDISM: Shit never happens the same way twice.
- THEOSOPHY: You don't know half of the shit that happens.
- DIANETICS: Your mother gave you shit before your were born.
- SEVENTH DAY ADVENTIST: No shit on Saturdays.
- JEHOVAH's WITNESSES: No shit happens until Armageddon.
- MOONIES: Only happy shit really happens.
- HOPI: Corn fertilizer happens.
- BAHA'I: It's all the same shit.
- STOICISM: This shit is good for me.
- OBJECTIVISM: Our shit is good for you.
- EST: If my shit bothers you, that's your fault.
- REAGANISM: Don't move; the shit will trickle down.
- FASCISM: Shit makes the trains run on time.
- CARGO CULT: A barge will come and take all the shit away.
- EMACS: Hold down Control-Meta-Shit.
- DISCORDIANISM: Some funny shit happened to me today.
- RASTAFARIANISM: Let's smoke this shit.
- CHARISMATIC: This is not shit and it doesn't smell bad.
- MASONIC: Shit happens, but we can't discuss it during Lodge.
- RED CROSS: Shit happens - send money.
Tuesday, May 22, 2007
Cheshire Crossing 3
Cheshire Crossing Issue 3 by Sephalon is now posted and available for your reading pleasure. Very amusing.
Sunday, May 20, 2007
Krakow
9th May: Kazimierz, Krakow
My mum & I flew from Bristol to Krakow on 9th May. The airport is named after the previous pope, as he was Bishop of Krakow. We got the train into Krakow from the airport (I bought our tickets using my Polish phrasebook) and walked to our hotel from the station, via the green belt that surrounds the city centre. The walls were slighted in the 18th century by the Austrians, and they planted trees instead. This green belt is called the Planty (plurals in Polish seem to be formed by adding a -y). After we had settled in, we went to explore the old Jewish quarter, Kazimierz. We had beetroot soup (delicious) and challah (bread) in the Café Alef. It seemed strange to be eating challah on a weekday. The café was very atmospheric, with a vaulted ceiling and lots of pictures of Jewish life on the walls. We booked a table there for the evening and discovered that there was going to be a klezmer band on as well. I love klezmer, so was very pleased about this. We then went to the Old Synagogue, which has an excellent museum of Jewish life. Several times tears started welling up, as we were very aware that the Jewish community in Kazimierz was almost wiped out (there were 17 000 before the war and only 2000 survived; as many Jews left for Israel, there are only about 100 Jews in Krakow now). In the museum were beautiful scrool-holders for the Book of Esther, used for the feast of Purim; mezuzot; Ark screens; pointers for reading the Torah; Hanukah candles; spice-boxes for the end of the Sabbath (Havdalah); a ketubah; and an amazing pair of paper-cuttings. There was also a really poignant series of photos of Jewish life in Kazimierz in the early years of the 20th century. It was particularly heartbreaking seeing the photos of the children; they were probably all wiped out. We then wandered around the Jewish quarter, looking at the other synagogues, and saw the Augustine monastery and the Lateran church; also a big baroque church of St Stanisław in the monastery precinct. The Polish Gothic style is very tall. A lot of the churches have Baroque interiors. We walked a little way along by the River Vistula and back through Kazimierz. We walked all round the old Jewish cemetery before finding the entrance, which is through a synagogue with a small courtyard inside the gate. It was closing, but we looked through the gate at the old gravestones, and read the plaques in the entrance courtyard. One of these was put there by a Holocaust survivor who was the only member of his family to survive. I read it and burst into tears. It was very sad. It's difficult to take on board thousands or millions of deaths, but when you find one specific story, it really brings it home to you. Then you somehow have to multiply that story by millions to understand the utter awfulness of the Holocaust - while still holding onto the feeling that this one story made you feel. We also saw a couple of groups of Jewish men having a guided tour around the area (they were wearing kippot).
I made a few notes back at the hotel to try to capture the sense of loss, of absence of the vanished Jewish life. It wasn't like they'd never been there; they had lived full rich lives and then been cruelly eliminated.
Echoes of Jewish life,
the glimpse of the Shabbat candles,
light snuffed out,
only glimmers of silver and gold,
old photos and paintings of Rabbis,
Purim plays and dreams of Israel,
Seder and Passover.
A whole culture wiped out. We must not let this happen again.
We went to the Café Alef for dinner. I had beef knedlach (dumplings) in dill sauce; my mum had carp. The meal was accompanied by sauerkraut salad (delicious), and for dessert we had Purim cake (kind of toffee and walnut pie) and charoset. The klezmer band were excellent; they set the feet tapping, opened all the right chakras, pulled at the heartstrings. There was a double bassist, a violinist and an accordionist. We bought the CD; they are called The Saints. They did a couple of tunes that I know (Araber Tanz was one) but the rest was new to me. As we came out of the café, we saw Venus shining very brightly over the rooftops.
10th May - Stare Miasto (Old Town), Krakow
We got the tram along Starowisłna (I bought the tickets using my trusty phrasebook again). We walked to the central square and saw the statue of Adam Mickiewicz (Poland's national poet) and the Sukiennice. We heard the hejnal, the trumpet call from the tower of St Mary's. This custom allegedly originated when the Tartars besieged the city; a trumpeter tried to warn the town, but they shot him in the throat with an arrow, silencing him. Another trumpeter replaced him after a short pause; so there is always a pause in the music to commemorate him. Very poignant. There is also a little tiny church in the main square, set at an angle to the rest of the square; when the Austrians occupied Poland in the 19th century, they took over St Mary's, and its local congregation had services in Polish in this tiny church. The tower of St Mary's church is amazing. We went in the Sukiennice, where there were lots of stalls selling amber, carved wooden boxes (bought one for N), and so on. Then walked down Ul. Jana (John Street) to the Czartoryczi Museum and round the corner to the gate of Ul. Florianska. Under the gate was a Baroque shrine to the Virgin Mary. On the other side were some folk musicians in traditional Gorale costume. Then we walked to the Stanisław Wyspiański Museum, and saw paintings, furniture and sketches in the Młoda Polska style (the Polish version of Art Nouveau). Most of them were by him (he was a very prolific chap) or by his friend Józef Mehoffer. We saw the preliminary sketches for the windows and polychrome wall paintings in the Franciscan church. Then we went and had cherry crepes and a strawberry, banana and blackcurrant smoothie in a café. Then we walked down past the Old Theatre (also in Młoda Polska style) and down to Collegium Maius of Jagiellonian University. It was beautiful (we didn't go round the museum, because our legs hurt after the previous museum). There was a medieval cloistered courtyard, with a well in the middle. Then we went to the church of St Francis of Assisi and saw the fabulous polychrome interior (by Wyspiański). There were lilies, and dandelions, and abstract patterns and stars, and a wonderful flamey sunburst effect around the arch where the transept crosses the nave. Then we had a late lunch in a small café opposite the German embassy (it was called the Grill Café, and the food was delicious). We had Bigos and potato cakes with gulash and sauerkraut. We returned via the main square ands walked about in the Planty for a bit. Very tired; walked back to the hotel. We went to the Ariel for dinner; also full of paintings of vanished Jewish life and culture. I had chicken stuffed with spinach amd drenched in mustard sauce; my mum had chicken in plum sauce.
11th May - Zakopane
We had enormous difficulty finding the main Krakow bus station. We eventually found it by asking for directions; it is accessed via a tunnel underneath the new shopping centre near the railway station (its location is marked incorrectly in both the Rough Guide and the Insight Guide - maybe it's moved since they were compiled). It also has two storeys, and the bus to Zakopane is on the top one. We found it about five minutes before it was due to leave. The bus journey was lovely, as the road wound through increasingly hilly countryside. Got a text from Nick telling me the BNP event had been cancelled - Yay! Power to the people! We saw lots of strip fields. About halfway to Zakopane, we started to be able to see the Tatra Mountains in the distance. We arrived in Zakopane at about midday, and got a bit lost - though we crossed the lovely meadow in the middle of town, so it was worth it. Then we heard a bloke with a Scots accent, and asked for directions (he was down from Warsaw for a couple of days, as he and his daughter were visting their former Polish exchange student - she gave us directions). We then had lunch in a charming restaurant called Karcma Zapiecek - if you go to Zakopane, eat there, as the food, decor and service were all lovely. My mum had black pudding with potato and sauerkraut, and I had meat dumplings; I've eaten something very similar in The Crown in Marshfield; I wonder if they have a Polish chef). After lunch we walked down the main street, through the market, and took the funicular up Gubałówka Hill. Some nice people made room for us on the seat by the window, so we could see the track receding behind us as we whizzed up the hill. There was a fantastic view of the Tatra Mountains from the top, and there was a topographical picture so you could identify them - the highest is 2610 m. We walked along the top of the hill admiring the view - very uplifting apart from the numerous stalls selling tourist tat. On one stall they had a real live lamb; it seemed a bit hot but was very cute. The view of the Tatras was framed by a row of pine trees. There was also a dear little wooden chapel with a carved interior. We went back down in the funicular and there was a Dominican nun on board. We bought some souvenirs in the market at the bottom. We tried to go to the folklore museum but it was shut. We then found another wooden church, with an even more ornate interior, and some 19th century wooden houses. We were really tired by this time, and decided to head back to the bus station, where we caught the 4.40 back to Krakow. We got a last glimpse of the Tatras from the bus on the way back - floating snow-streaked peaks. When we got back we walked down Ul. Florianska to the main square (and saw the inscription on Pod Roża about the tortoise and the ant), then had our dinner in the Grill Café. It was very atmospheric with the lamps lit in the gathering dusk.
12th May - Wawel Castle, Krakow
The castle is very impressive. We went in the Royal Treasury and Armoury and saw amazing horse trappings and shields, and the gifts of a sultan to a Polish king at the signing of a peace accord; all studded with turquoise. A lot of the royal treasure was looted during the Austrian occupation. There was some 12th century jewellery and a gold chalice and paten. There was armour and swords - enormous two-handers - and guns and crossbows. Then we went round the State Rooms, which were very impressive, with gold rosettes in carved wooden ceilings, leather wall-coverings, and old furniture, including a 17th-c English bed. In one of the rooms was an ensemble playing medieval music (a tune that we have on CD at home). Then we went round the cathedral and saw the royal tombs of the Jagiellonian kings. The interior was very Baroque and quite sombre. There were also some Młoda Polska windows by Mehoffer, and the tomb of Queen Jadwiga (canonised by John Paul II in 1997). There seemed to be a lot of power coming from her tomb. We sat on a wall by the the old chapel ruins to have lunch (we bought a picnic in a shop on the way). There were lovely flowerbeds there. There was also a music shop set into the castle wall, and we bought some Polish Renaissance and medieval music. Afterwards we went in the Royal Apartments, mostly restored in the 1920s, as there was a disastrous fire in the 18th century, and then the whole section was used as a barracks during the Austrian occupation. After we left the castle we walked up Ul. Kanonicza to the Dominican church of Sts Peter and Paul, then had icecreams - yum. Then we went back to the hotel for a rest, and later caught the tram into town and went to the Grill Café again (the food really is excellent there, and not very expensive). We heard the hejnal again from the café, and after the meal, we walked to the main square again to hear the 8pm one. We saw a little boy busking with an accordion, and a teddy bear holding his money pot. There was also a Goralese busker with a very impressive beard. We stood in the Plac Mariacki to hear the 8pm hejnal, and could see the trumpet sticking out of the window. Afterwards the man waved his hand out of the window, and then brandished the trumpet before closing the window. A fitting finale to our Krakow experience.
My mum & I flew from Bristol to Krakow on 9th May. The airport is named after the previous pope, as he was Bishop of Krakow. We got the train into Krakow from the airport (I bought our tickets using my Polish phrasebook) and walked to our hotel from the station, via the green belt that surrounds the city centre. The walls were slighted in the 18th century by the Austrians, and they planted trees instead. This green belt is called the Planty (plurals in Polish seem to be formed by adding a -y). After we had settled in, we went to explore the old Jewish quarter, Kazimierz. We had beetroot soup (delicious) and challah (bread) in the Café Alef. It seemed strange to be eating challah on a weekday. The café was very atmospheric, with a vaulted ceiling and lots of pictures of Jewish life on the walls. We booked a table there for the evening and discovered that there was going to be a klezmer band on as well. I love klezmer, so was very pleased about this. We then went to the Old Synagogue, which has an excellent museum of Jewish life. Several times tears started welling up, as we were very aware that the Jewish community in Kazimierz was almost wiped out (there were 17 000 before the war and only 2000 survived; as many Jews left for Israel, there are only about 100 Jews in Krakow now). In the museum were beautiful scrool-holders for the Book of Esther, used for the feast of Purim; mezuzot; Ark screens; pointers for reading the Torah; Hanukah candles; spice-boxes for the end of the Sabbath (Havdalah); a ketubah; and an amazing pair of paper-cuttings. There was also a really poignant series of photos of Jewish life in Kazimierz in the early years of the 20th century. It was particularly heartbreaking seeing the photos of the children; they were probably all wiped out. We then wandered around the Jewish quarter, looking at the other synagogues, and saw the Augustine monastery and the Lateran church; also a big baroque church of St Stanisław in the monastery precinct. The Polish Gothic style is very tall. A lot of the churches have Baroque interiors. We walked a little way along by the River Vistula and back through Kazimierz. We walked all round the old Jewish cemetery before finding the entrance, which is through a synagogue with a small courtyard inside the gate. It was closing, but we looked through the gate at the old gravestones, and read the plaques in the entrance courtyard. One of these was put there by a Holocaust survivor who was the only member of his family to survive. I read it and burst into tears. It was very sad. It's difficult to take on board thousands or millions of deaths, but when you find one specific story, it really brings it home to you. Then you somehow have to multiply that story by millions to understand the utter awfulness of the Holocaust - while still holding onto the feeling that this one story made you feel. We also saw a couple of groups of Jewish men having a guided tour around the area (they were wearing kippot).
I made a few notes back at the hotel to try to capture the sense of loss, of absence of the vanished Jewish life. It wasn't like they'd never been there; they had lived full rich lives and then been cruelly eliminated.
Echoes of Jewish life,
the glimpse of the Shabbat candles,
light snuffed out,
only glimmers of silver and gold,
old photos and paintings of Rabbis,
Purim plays and dreams of Israel,
Seder and Passover.
A whole culture wiped out. We must not let this happen again.
We went to the Café Alef for dinner. I had beef knedlach (dumplings) in dill sauce; my mum had carp. The meal was accompanied by sauerkraut salad (delicious), and for dessert we had Purim cake (kind of toffee and walnut pie) and charoset. The klezmer band were excellent; they set the feet tapping, opened all the right chakras, pulled at the heartstrings. There was a double bassist, a violinist and an accordionist. We bought the CD; they are called The Saints. They did a couple of tunes that I know (Araber Tanz was one) but the rest was new to me. As we came out of the café, we saw Venus shining very brightly over the rooftops.
10th May - Stare Miasto (Old Town), Krakow
We got the tram along Starowisłna (I bought the tickets using my trusty phrasebook again). We walked to the central square and saw the statue of Adam Mickiewicz (Poland's national poet) and the Sukiennice. We heard the hejnal, the trumpet call from the tower of St Mary's. This custom allegedly originated when the Tartars besieged the city; a trumpeter tried to warn the town, but they shot him in the throat with an arrow, silencing him. Another trumpeter replaced him after a short pause; so there is always a pause in the music to commemorate him. Very poignant. There is also a little tiny church in the main square, set at an angle to the rest of the square; when the Austrians occupied Poland in the 19th century, they took over St Mary's, and its local congregation had services in Polish in this tiny church. The tower of St Mary's church is amazing. We went in the Sukiennice, where there were lots of stalls selling amber, carved wooden boxes (bought one for N), and so on. Then walked down Ul. Jana (John Street) to the Czartoryczi Museum and round the corner to the gate of Ul. Florianska. Under the gate was a Baroque shrine to the Virgin Mary. On the other side were some folk musicians in traditional Gorale costume. Then we walked to the Stanisław Wyspiański Museum, and saw paintings, furniture and sketches in the Młoda Polska style (the Polish version of Art Nouveau). Most of them were by him (he was a very prolific chap) or by his friend Józef Mehoffer. We saw the preliminary sketches for the windows and polychrome wall paintings in the Franciscan church. Then we went and had cherry crepes and a strawberry, banana and blackcurrant smoothie in a café. Then we walked down past the Old Theatre (also in Młoda Polska style) and down to Collegium Maius of Jagiellonian University. It was beautiful (we didn't go round the museum, because our legs hurt after the previous museum). There was a medieval cloistered courtyard, with a well in the middle. Then we went to the church of St Francis of Assisi and saw the fabulous polychrome interior (by Wyspiański). There were lilies, and dandelions, and abstract patterns and stars, and a wonderful flamey sunburst effect around the arch where the transept crosses the nave. Then we had a late lunch in a small café opposite the German embassy (it was called the Grill Café, and the food was delicious). We had Bigos and potato cakes with gulash and sauerkraut. We returned via the main square ands walked about in the Planty for a bit. Very tired; walked back to the hotel. We went to the Ariel for dinner; also full of paintings of vanished Jewish life and culture. I had chicken stuffed with spinach amd drenched in mustard sauce; my mum had chicken in plum sauce.
11th May - Zakopane
We had enormous difficulty finding the main Krakow bus station. We eventually found it by asking for directions; it is accessed via a tunnel underneath the new shopping centre near the railway station (its location is marked incorrectly in both the Rough Guide and the Insight Guide - maybe it's moved since they were compiled). It also has two storeys, and the bus to Zakopane is on the top one. We found it about five minutes before it was due to leave. The bus journey was lovely, as the road wound through increasingly hilly countryside. Got a text from Nick telling me the BNP event had been cancelled - Yay! Power to the people! We saw lots of strip fields. About halfway to Zakopane, we started to be able to see the Tatra Mountains in the distance. We arrived in Zakopane at about midday, and got a bit lost - though we crossed the lovely meadow in the middle of town, so it was worth it. Then we heard a bloke with a Scots accent, and asked for directions (he was down from Warsaw for a couple of days, as he and his daughter were visting their former Polish exchange student - she gave us directions). We then had lunch in a charming restaurant called Karcma Zapiecek - if you go to Zakopane, eat there, as the food, decor and service were all lovely. My mum had black pudding with potato and sauerkraut, and I had meat dumplings; I've eaten something very similar in The Crown in Marshfield; I wonder if they have a Polish chef). After lunch we walked down the main street, through the market, and took the funicular up Gubałówka Hill. Some nice people made room for us on the seat by the window, so we could see the track receding behind us as we whizzed up the hill. There was a fantastic view of the Tatra Mountains from the top, and there was a topographical picture so you could identify them - the highest is 2610 m. We walked along the top of the hill admiring the view - very uplifting apart from the numerous stalls selling tourist tat. On one stall they had a real live lamb; it seemed a bit hot but was very cute. The view of the Tatras was framed by a row of pine trees. There was also a dear little wooden chapel with a carved interior. We went back down in the funicular and there was a Dominican nun on board. We bought some souvenirs in the market at the bottom. We tried to go to the folklore museum but it was shut. We then found another wooden church, with an even more ornate interior, and some 19th century wooden houses. We were really tired by this time, and decided to head back to the bus station, where we caught the 4.40 back to Krakow. We got a last glimpse of the Tatras from the bus on the way back - floating snow-streaked peaks. When we got back we walked down Ul. Florianska to the main square (and saw the inscription on Pod Roża about the tortoise and the ant), then had our dinner in the Grill Café. It was very atmospheric with the lamps lit in the gathering dusk.
12th May - Wawel Castle, Krakow
The castle is very impressive. We went in the Royal Treasury and Armoury and saw amazing horse trappings and shields, and the gifts of a sultan to a Polish king at the signing of a peace accord; all studded with turquoise. A lot of the royal treasure was looted during the Austrian occupation. There was some 12th century jewellery and a gold chalice and paten. There was armour and swords - enormous two-handers - and guns and crossbows. Then we went round the State Rooms, which were very impressive, with gold rosettes in carved wooden ceilings, leather wall-coverings, and old furniture, including a 17th-c English bed. In one of the rooms was an ensemble playing medieval music (a tune that we have on CD at home). Then we went round the cathedral and saw the royal tombs of the Jagiellonian kings. The interior was very Baroque and quite sombre. There were also some Młoda Polska windows by Mehoffer, and the tomb of Queen Jadwiga (canonised by John Paul II in 1997). There seemed to be a lot of power coming from her tomb. We sat on a wall by the the old chapel ruins to have lunch (we bought a picnic in a shop on the way). There were lovely flowerbeds there. There was also a music shop set into the castle wall, and we bought some Polish Renaissance and medieval music. Afterwards we went in the Royal Apartments, mostly restored in the 1920s, as there was a disastrous fire in the 18th century, and then the whole section was used as a barracks during the Austrian occupation. After we left the castle we walked up Ul. Kanonicza to the Dominican church of Sts Peter and Paul, then had icecreams - yum. Then we went back to the hotel for a rest, and later caught the tram into town and went to the Grill Café again (the food really is excellent there, and not very expensive). We heard the hejnal again from the café, and after the meal, we walked to the main square again to hear the 8pm one. We saw a little boy busking with an accordion, and a teddy bear holding his money pot. There was also a Goralese busker with a very impressive beard. We stood in the Plac Mariacki to hear the 8pm hejnal, and could see the trumpet sticking out of the window. Afterwards the man waved his hand out of the window, and then brandished the trumpet before closing the window. A fitting finale to our Krakow experience.
Friday, May 18, 2007
my muse
I took the "The Nine Muses" quiz on gURL.com
My muse is...
Calliope
Calliope is the patron goddess of epic poetry. She is often depicted holding a writing tablet and wearing a golden crown, for she is the oldest of the muses and their leader. Her name means "The Fair Voiced," but Calliope inspires eloquence in writing. Read more...
Who is your muse?
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